Features
Michael Mina + Don Yamauchi
By Travis R. Wright
May 6, 2008, 10:55

Michael Mina + Don Yamauchi
Ain't Life Grand

With innovative imagination and awe-inspiring style, two chefs, Michael Mina and Don Yamauchi, realized great success early on in their careers. Their combined experience in the kitchen would make any would-be “Top Chef” cower as their explosive plates, presented cleanly and carefully, have all of Detroit raving about Bourbon Steak and Saltwater within the MGM Grand. Two great minds thought alike and the outcome proved opulent with overwhelming ovations from the city to the ‘burbs. With the globetrotting celebrity chef Mina at the helm of operations, but working mainly from the west coast, one of Detroit’s most acclaimed chefs, Don Yamauchi (formally of Tribute) is manning both kitchens … at the same time.

Mina is one of the most accomplished chefs in the country. He’s confident in his food design and it shows, but more than just a pretty plate, his careful but eclectic sense of seasoning sets him apart from most other Two-star Michelin Chefs whose restuants I’ve frequented. Famous for taking tuna tartar to the masses, Mina has also had the pleasure of making the network rounds appearing on shows like FOX’s Hell’s Kitchen. With his gentle, warm smile and clever take on cook book home recipes for any level of home chef to take on it’s no surprise that he’s quickly risen to international culinary stardom.

Though Bourbon Steak takes cues from the meat and potatoes Midwestern palate, there’s an obvious upscale twist. How upscale? The mouth melting six ounce Japanese Kobe steak might very well sit atop the upper-echelon of its kind in this state. “I wanted to take some simple plates that people are used to and spin them into a dining experience they’d never forget. It’s American dining brought to a new level,” says Mina. “It starts with the best ingredients I can find, which includes a lot of Michigan produce, like morel mushrooms, asparagus and tomatoes and ends with a meal that you want to have again and again.” From the tomato-dusted red onion ring to bleu cheese scalloped potatoes, truffled mac and cheese and herbed duck fat fries, the side items are equally innovative ... and addictive.

Only the dishwashing station connects these immaculately clean kitchens, and when you cross over to Saltwater, you enter a universe that revolves around the sea as opposed to the farm. In my opinion, nothing looks better than a clever and minimally plated seafood dish and with Yamauchi’s eye, the porcelain canvas upon which he works ends up nothing short of modern art. I recommend the dusted sole served with dungeness crab brandade, horseradish, braised red cabbage with a semi-rich dijon sauce or, if you like something savory but elegant and entirely filling, the Maine lobster pot pie will bring you to bliss and back. Of course, the Ahi tuna medallions are to die for, too. “We’re presenting food the way it was meant to be done, we’re having fun with it, sure, but we’re all about bringing customers back and that means we want to blow them off their feet,” says Yamauchi. “Many seem to be well-traveled and it’s trendy these days to be well-versed in food and fine dining, which means we have to make sure each plate that goes out of the kitchen is perfect,” says Yamauchi. “Sure, that means there might be a bit more stress, but this is our passion, so really it’s just that much more fun.”  | RDW

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