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Old School Excellence
The slogan at Boodles is “Where East Meets West.” And no, it's not another Asian-fusion joint. It's an old school-style fine dining establishment. Owned by Bruno and Charlotte Ferguson for the 26 years it’s been in operation, Boodles is the kind of place where every customer gets VIP treatment (as it clearly states all over the menu).
Located at the corner of John R. and 11 Mile Rd., Boodles is the kind of place that remains an out-in-the-open secret, but those in the know are tried-and-true regulars, on a first-name basis with the staff. With their cigar and single-malt scotch menus and their tableside service of Chateaubriand and Bananas Foster, Boodles is one of the last-standing remnants of the three-martini lunch era.
The menu is classic old-world fine dining: oysters, escargot, rack of lamb, filet mignon, king lobster tail and surf & turf. Nothing surprising — haute cuisine it isn’t — but hey, if it ain’t broke, why fix it?
Assistant manager and sous chef Dana Trzcinski prepared an array of Boodles’ signature far-from-light-fare dishes during my visit. Crab-stuffed mushrooms stuffed with boursin cheese and slathered in a lobster cream sauce. Crab? Cheese? Lobster? Cream? Let’s go!
Next I sampled the Shrimp Scampi over fettuccine — a thick, creamy scampi sauce full of tart lemon and heady garlic, a very aromatic dish and pure heaven for garlic lovers. The Tableside Caesar Salad is a classic steakhouse tradition, but the lamb chops …
Oh … dear … God, the lamb chops. I am a lamb-lover and these lamb chops were quite possibly some of the best I’ve had. Cut like butter, the natural flavor of the lamb was strong and the meat was so tender it practically melted. Deeply marinated in Merlot, rosemary, garlic & onions, and served with a vinegar reduction, this lamb had no outer char, leaving nothing but the flavor of the tender, juicy meat. Lamb is fatty — it’s the nature of the beast — but the fat gives it flavor, and this was a pungent pleasure.
Dana presented me with their most popular dish, the Steak Diane. Prepared tableside, this beef tenderloin is flambéed with brandy, garlic, mushrooms, green onion, and served with a Dijon cream sauce. Again, no char — and again, a garlic lover’s delight.
Because I'm fully committed to my CPC duties, I tried the Crepes Suzette for dessert. Another tableside preparation, this is made with Grand Marnier and orange zest and served with whipped cream. The sauce is sweet like syrup and the crepe had a hearty consistency to pair well with it — pure decadence.
Boodles defines that good-old-boy vibe — with plush, maroon upholstery, brass rails and solid wood throughout, including the bar. There’s even a pianist Tuesday through Sunday. While it seems to be a relic of a former era, Boodles is so nostalgic as to be fresh all over again. It's dimly lit and romantic for all its quaintness, as great for a first date as a 50th anniversary. | RDW
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