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Detroit’s Oldest (and Coolest) Neighborhood
Corktown always gets described in terms of its history. Cobblestone streets, 19th century Victorian homes and, of course, the ruins of Tiger Stadium along Michigan Avenue. But the interesting thing about Corktown is its future.
Corktown resident Jerry Paffendorf is the founder of Loveland, which might qualify as the city’s quirkiest development idea (that’s saying a lot in Detroit). It’s democracy applied to land redistribution. Got a dollar? That’s all it takes to purchase a “deed” on a square-inch of vacant land in the city. “Then we’re figuring out ways to mirror it online,” Paffendorf explains, “and build an online community out of vacant land in the city." He sees the land as a "monument where people are free to visit and build and create things on their own little parcels on the real world site.” Sim City Detroit … but what’s the point? Paffendorf, who came to our city via Brooklyn and San Fran, says Detroit will become healthier when it is porous, meaning there is a constant exchange of people, ideas and money flowing in and out. “It’s really exciting to even modestly begin that process,” he says.
Elsewhere in Corktown, plenty of people own actual homes and businesses. But that insistence on community that's magnified in Loveland is present on every corner of this little borough. Check out the hip-hop, photography and artistic force that is Piper Carter. She runs the 5E Gallery on Michigan Ave., and is currently writing a grant to fund a computer studio where local artists can use high-tech digital equipment, plus training for creative students and computer access for seniors. “One of the reasons that I love Corktown is because it’s almost like we’re a family,” she explains. “Look at Phil Cooley [owner of Slows BBQ] — he’s a carpenter, and did all that woodwork that makes Slows so famous, but he offers his services to neighborhood businesses for a reduced rate.” She also loves French bistro food at Le Petit Zinc, finding Pucci at the local vintage clothier Rachel’s Place, the old-school cigarette and candy machine at LJ’s and Corktown volunteers, who do everything from planting trees to enforcing neighborhood colors for Corktown homes. “All the historic homes have to keep within that color scheme. So when you go through Corktown, it’s really surreal. It’s almost this sort of fairytale place.”
Jeremy Kaelin, a medical technologist at Providence Hospital in Southfield, bought his Corktown condo on Labrosse in 2004, at the urging of his family. “All my elders said I should buy property, and if I did, I’d never lose money on it.” He laughs. “But money’s money, right? It doesn’t really matter. Honestly, if I stopped drinking in Detroit, I would have no problem affording it.” Though he says he likes old homes, he enjoys the loft-style architecture of his newer condo (built in '97). But what matters most to Kaelin are sandwiches at Mudgie’s, bike rides down Michigan Ave. when the sun comes out and having neighbors he actually knows. “Detroit’s a more intimate city than a place like Royal Oak, where I used to live,” he says. “I used to come down here just to watch bands. I was down here so much I just moved. And I love it.”
Paffendorf agrees. “You look out your window and you see the big blinking windows of Motor City Casino and you see where Tiger Stadium was; look the other way and you see all these tiny houses together. Out the other window, you’ve got the skyscrapers of downtown Detroit. It’s a beautiful mix — beautiful and inspiring.” | RDW
When Ashley's grandma lived in Corktown, everything cost $1. Email her: Ashley@realdetroitweekly.com.
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