Columns : Clean Plate Club Last Updated: Mar 19th, 2008 - 07:43:02


Clean Plate Club (September 20, 2006)
By Liz Dueweke | photo by Guy Brown
Sep 20, 2006, 18:44

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Centaur
Mythical Feast

If you paid attention in high school, you’d know that centaurs were wild, mythical creatures that ran amuck in Greece getting drunk off wine and eating raw flesh.

Thanks to centuries of progress and the Detroit bar scene, a Centaur is no longer a half-man, half-horse, but a hot bar. And although wine is still a staple for Centaur, so is the wide array of delicious appetizers, so leave your raw flesh at home.

“We really are an alternative to your standard nightclub, in our look, in our standard and in our vibe,” said Sean Harrington, owner of Centaur since its birth in 2005. He’s right. Centaur is a sexy date place and a welcomed change from the ordinary. 

Located downtown, Centaur is one block away from the Fox Theatre, Ford Field and Comerica Park. But the location is the only thing in common with neighboring sporty destinations. This is not a sports bar.

The CPC felt the classy touch of glamorous nostalgia walking into Centaur. The sharp, art deco architecture is reminiscent of Paris in the 1920s and 30s. Tall windows, plush, decadent couches, dark, marble countertops, and a gigantic Chrysler Building-esque chandelier protruding through all three levels of the bar make you feel like you are entering a scene from Top Hat.

While you may not actually be in a scene from Top Hat, it might be on the big screen, where Turner Classic Movies always take precedent over a Tigers game. The classic flicks are just one high point of this chic hangout which is brand new, but already on its way to becoming a classic.

As Nouvelle Vague and Julie London sifted gracefully through the speakers, the CPC decided to sample a few of the martinis from the vast and intricate list. We sipped on the Ultimate Godiva Martini, the Candy Martini, the White Grape Martini and the Paradise Martini.

It was hard to pick a favorite, but the White Grape and the Paradise came out on top for their clean finishes and delicate, fruit flavors. All chocolate lovers need to try the Ultimate Godiva, which packs a little hint of raspberry while still satisfying the need for a chocolate fix.

While we tried tempting Pom Martinis, we noticed tiny hangers under the bar made to hold purses. Genius! This many seem unimportant to some, but this is a brilliant and often overlooked idea. If it’s all in the details, then Centaur hasn’t missed a thing.

As for food, Centaur doesn’t serve large plates, but small tapas-style entrees instead. Order one at a time as you sample each martini, or order them all at once and share with a date. Centaur will do it, and they will do it any time you come in.

Unlike a lot of bars that quit serving food at a certain time, Centaur is open seven days a week and serves food right until 2 a.m. Yep, that’s right: no more White Castle at midnight on a Tuesday.

Instead, try the beef tenderloin in a Szechuan sauce, the Bruschetta with shaved Parmesan on garlic baguettes, or the lamb chops with a satisfying mint sauce.

The CPC's favorite? Wild mushrooms sautéed in burgundy wine and served on toasted baguettes and topped with melted boursin cheese. This little delight made the CPC want more. Even if you think you hate mushrooms, do not come into Centaur without trying this dish. You will not be disappointed.

Centaur may be in present day Detroit, but its atmosphere, food and addictive martinis create such a surreal experience you will wonder if it was real, or like the Centaur, just a myth from days gone by.  | RDW

Helping you discover Detroit's best of the best one forkful at a time: Real Detroit Weekly's CPC. Email us your fave craves via letters@realdetroitweekly.com.



Centaur
2233 Park Ave.
Detroit
313.963.4040
www.centaurbar.com
Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. seven days a week.